Time warp: Indus Valley, silken weaves, and the Kashmiri floor covering

Evidence of the golden-brown wagoo (made from reedmace or bulrush) has been found at Indus Valley sites such as Burzahom in present-day Srinagar district and Kanishkapura in present-day Baramulla..

Driven by the cold (temperatures here dip below -3 degrees Celsius in winter) and the availability of raw material in a lush land covered in flowers through much of the year, rug-making traditions would expand in variety and complexity over the centuries..

Yet, back in 2000, when I was researching floor covering traditions of India, I found a paucity of scholarship with regards to Kashmiri carpets, mats and rugs, says textile designer and crafts-heritage researcher Promil Pande, author of Floor Coverings from Kashmir: Kaleen Carpets, Namdah, Gabba, Ari Rugs and Wagoo Mats (2023; Niyogi Books)..

Under the reign of Shah Jahan (1628-58), the patterns in hand-knotted kaleen traditionally made of silk and wool acquired a distinctive appearance, later nicknamed (rather unimaginatively) the Mughal flower style by researchers..

The Indus Valley pattern: Wagoo mats the plain, golden-brown ones made from reedmace or bulrush are typically woven by women, and once formed a bustling industry on their own...

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